Archive for July 24, 2010

Bridges and (very) bad maps

So our fingers no longer hurt and we have successfully moved the pain to our bums. A very long day on a mountain bike will do that, but it was worth it.

We decided to rent some decent bikes (probably not necessary but we like nice bikes) from the most well known operator (Bike Asia). They charge £5 per day and you get a good bike, helmet and disc brakes (but no bell) where the others are between £2 and £3 – so not a biggie. They also supply a map that looks great but in retrospect they should be shot for it.

The hostel is very good at arranging free ‘activities’ and we decided to join their excursion out to Dragon Bridge. A 20km round trip that they estimate as 5-6 hrs with time for ‘rest, photo and lunch”. It seemed that the entire hostel was going for the ride which delayed the start but thankfully it stayed overcast. The way girls dress for this type of excursion boggles my mind (and V’s). Some of the group were in delicate white longs. Another was in black with gold pumps, full make-up and fashion sunnies – This for a romp through muddy rice paddies and rivers on a mountain bike !?

Getting out of town was chaos and I’m very happy that we did not rent bikes before. There are no traffic rules here with the biggest problem being the scooters that ride whichever direction they want, whenever they want. Outside town the roads were quieter and we cruised along in awe of the karst moutains all around. Heading ‘off road’ we were desperate to fly through the single track but being in a huge group that gets off to push over a few rocky bits kinda cramps your style. V and I resigned ourselves to plodding along the narrow pathways between scenic rice paddies – it was great (even better – it is pretty flat so easy to cycle).

The main attration of the ride is the ‘Dragon Bridge’. I guess because it is high (even though it doesn’t need to be) compared to all the other bridges. Everyone talks about jumping from the bridge – around 10m to the river, but there were no takers when we arrived. It only takes one to get the ball rolling – and yip – it was me. I could not resist putting all the kids to shame – even with my white undercoat and flab this rusk still has some guts 🙂

We left the group at the bridge, as they were returning to Yangshuo via the main road, we wanted to cycle the opposite river bank and head off to Moon Hill. A chance for a little adventure – boy did we get it !

Our map was beyond useless and in retrospect we must have taken a wrong turn very early on. Eventually we decided that we must be heading the wrong way and sure enough the gps on my phone confirmed it. Now out in the middle of knowhere, baking in the heat and running out of water we were both getting a little nervous. Our only options were to head all the way back or push on. We decided to push on. The road soon became a track and before long we were cycling through farmland and into rural villages. We hit a number of dead ends and spent ages doubling back and cutting across rice paddies and through pomelo orchards with no idea where we were. The few locals dotted around were always friendly but probably thinking ‘stupid tourists’ as they plucked their chickens and watch us pedal past.

The tracks kept leading us geographically futher away from Yangshuo and keeping our bearings surrounded by monstrous karst mountains was a nightmare. Out of water and getting late we were starting to panic a little. Relief came in the form of an isolated building with a fridge and a willing shop assistant. With water replenished and some idea of directions we pushed on into more built up farm areas until finlly we came to what you could call a road. A group of Chinese tourists were riding along and we confirmed the directions back home – only another 10km or so on busy roads !

So after about 40km riding (20km of which was getting lost and found) and not finding Moon Hill, I have never been happier to see a cold shower and a hard bed (BTW. Think I forgot to mention that the beds here are very hard – basically sleeping on a plank). We have the bikes for one more day – oh please let it be pouring with rain tomorrow 🙂

[Pictures: 1,2) Us out on trail before we got worried and lost all interest in photography. 3) Back on track – theme park on the main road – climb for a teddy bear ! PS. Some more pics from the day in the gallery shortly]

– Posted from my iPhone via Wifi