[Milford Sound, New Zealand] After stopping in town (Te Anau) to pop into an outdoor equipment shop (V just can’t resist), we hit the road bound for Milford Sound. The trip is, according to a few sources, the most beautiful road trip in the world. It’s only 120km, but we agree. Stunning.

The first section follows the shore of lake Te Anau and we stopped a couple of times to take pics in the perfect weather. After 30km the route kinks away from the lake and starts following the Eglinton river. The traffic was getting heavier the further we drove. Chains of tour buses and camper-vans of varying sizes kept the road busy, this being the only way to and from Milford. At each lookout or viewpoint there were at least a couple of cars and buses but they all cleared off quickly so it wasn’t a problem.

Before entering the Fiordland National Park (free) we were driving along a huge valley floored with rocky grasslands and walled by spectacular hills. Entering the park we drove into a solid wall of trees as far as you can see in either direction. We passed a number of DoC campsites (with ‘self check-in’ drop boxes and pulled in at Mirror Lakes. A wooden walkway led us (and loads of other tourists) down along a few pristine lakes in front of a backdrop of dramatic mountains. Pity the wind had started up and the clouds were moving in because you can see these pools would have provided amazing ‘reflection’ shots. The sign across the lake had ‘Mirror Lakes’ printed as a mirror image so you could read it in the water – what a sweet touch.

I think we stopped off to take photos at just about every viewpoint from Mirror lakes to the Homer tunnel, taking in the vast valleys, snow covered peaks and crystal clear streams. At a couple of stops we encountered the odd Kea, usually being fed by tourists who were blatantly ignoring the ‘Don’t Feed the Kea’ signs. The Kea is the only alpine parrot in the world (nesting in snow). They look cool (like fat, green parrots with big beaks) and like humans (and the food) but they can be a problem. They have been known to pluck and chew wiper blades and the rubber from around windscreens. With that beak I can believe it. Talking of wildlife, I’m sure we mentioned the possum in an earlier post. These guys became a pest here after being introduced ages ago. You would think that the numbers are under control from the number of squashums we passed today but apparently not.

We also passed a lot of trail-heads mostly full of cars (it’s the weekend and the Kiwis are restless) There are a lot of great multi-day hikes that you can do from this area. We have got to do a few someday, the place is too awesome not to. It is also simplified, for example, there is a company called TrackNet that will fetch or collect you at trail heads. And no need for tents. As long as you book there are convenient huts on the trails. We love this place.

Homer tunnel is ‘one way’ during the day so we had a short (15 min) wait in front of a huge rock wall. To our right in the distance was a towering waterfall and large patch of snow/ice. We’ll have to take a walk up there on our way back to check it out. The tunnel is around 2km long and very steep (down), hope the van can make it back up. More breathtaking scenery as we started dropping down towards Milford. We stopped off at a short walk called ‘The Chasm’, because it is one. Raging water rushing in a beautifully formed gully beneath the walkway. Brilliant.

By the time we got to Milford and the huge ticketing offices (looks more like a small airport terminal) the weather was changing but we bought a ticket hoping it would pass by. With a couple hours to kill we had a very late lunch and then the rain started. The sound was obscured by heavy cloud. It was not looking good. Luckily we were able to change our ticket for the morning – may as well take the chance, how much worse can it get right?

We managed to get a site at the only campsite in Milford (the DoC sites being the far side of the tunnel) which was very expensive (NZ$44, £22) with all the expected facilities. A small parking lot style site but this time teeming with sandflies. Once the rain stopped and the clouds started clearing the view and river alongside made it all worth while. What a stunning spot to camp. The weather-man says tomorrow will be clear and calm. Let’s see!

[Pictures: Cute little window rubber eating Kea. We have hundreds of shots like this (hopefully better) from today. Waiting at Homer tunnel. Peering into the Chasm]

– Posted from my iPhone via expensive 3G