What a day this turned out to be !

We were up early and discovered that the hot water in the taps from last night had been cunningly replaced with glacial run-off. Lesson learnt: find out when the hot water is on ! Our driver (Wang Shu Min) was on time and washing his cab outside when we got to reception. We negociated (probably not very well) a tour or the popular sites with the intention of staying the night in Yingxian on the way to Wutai Shan.

Lots and lots after the break…..

A bone jarring ride west through and out of Datong (happy never to be going back) got us to our first stop, the Yungang Caves (N40.11000, E113.12628).

There is a long walk down to the caves from the car park but our attention was captivated by the vast construction and landscaping going on. It seems they are turning this venue into another tourist theme park complete with massive water features and goliath visitors centre. It was not very busy and after choking on the £10 entrance fee (up 60% from the 2007 LP guide) we strolled along the cave fronts and into the open ones. Impressive – these are the oldest Buddhist carvings in China, originally 50 000 statues in 252 caves. We snacked on a fresh and warm toffeeish sesame biscuits and absorbed the atmosphere – a good start.

Returning to the car park we discovered our taxi (containing our backpacks) was missing ! My stomach winced at the thought that we had just been cleaned out. We stood in the baking sun deciding what to do, but all we could do was wait and hope he had taken a quick fare. 15mins later we decided to try to call the numbers on his business card. No luck (seems we can’t make calls with our UK pay as you go sim cards). I sent SMS to the numbers – no response. All the scenarios were racing through our minds as we wandered the car park looking for Mr Wang. Honestly we could not even agree on the colour of the cab ! As we walked out of the car park he came running up shouting from behind – never has a taxi driver provided us with such instant RELIEF! I think he missed us as we walked into the car park. First thing V did when we got to the relocated cab was take a picture of it 🙂 A short while later Mr Wang got a call, we think from his office, giving him all kinds of hell about the SMS I had sent.

We headed south (I think around 70km) to the Hanging Monastery. Mr Wang never drove faster than 60km/h and enjoyed pointing out all the speed cops on the road with fancy vans and remote controlled cameras. Seems speed cops the world over are the only ones with any cash – I wonder why !?

Thoughtfully he informed us that there were no resturants at the Monastery and asked if we would like to eat. We agreed as he eyed a few resturants before pulling into one that looked popular. Really local. No English anywhere, but they made a fuss for us. We provided the entertainment for the other patrons. Somehow we ended up with the special of the day in front of us. I’ll battle to accurately describe this, the worst meal I have ever experienced bar none ! Some form or bread (I assume) and a bowl of cold broth. Way too much chilli, spring onions and some herbs with tofu (yuk) and an as yet unidentified clear substance with the consistency of snot. After managing to pick out the barely edible tofu bits with our chopsticks (we’re getting pretty good with them), we dared to try the snot. Besides being impossible to manage with chopsticks it was beyond foul in both taste and texture. I managed slightly more than V but had to desist as I gagged and very nearly ‘lost my lunch’ (from now on I’m taking an emergency barf bag to meals with me). The mere thought of the meal would have me feeling green for the next 5 hours.

The Hanging Monastery (N39.66066, E113.70953) was another shocker – more than double the LP figure but we had to do it if even just for the photo op. It really does not look stable. Pinned to the cliff with wooden beams is not my idea of safe and as we gingerley walked around it’s narrow walkways my hands and feet began to sweat profusely. Turning at one point I saw some domestic tourists on a walkway below having some fun shaking one of the support struts without any regard for the possible consequences (I doubt the Chinese saftey record is up with the best). We were happy to be back on solid rock and with an additional passenger in the taxi (which we agreed to) we were on our way again.

Our planned final destination of Yingxian with its Wooden Pogoda (N39.56501, E113.18193) is an unwelcoming city barely mentioned in the LP. Our driver managed to sell us on extending his services all the way to our next POI at Wutai Shan by dividing the cost with the extra passenger we had aquired. Honestly, we were happy not to be spending the night in Yingxian.

The Pagoda was, as usual, impressive. 65m high and one of the oldest wooden buildings in the world. The structure is all interlocking and was built without nails. Having withstood a number of earthquakes during its lifespan we could only go up to the first balcony. The crushed joists and strain guages dotted around ensured that we did not want (even if possible) to go any higher.

Back at the taxi circumstances had changed. Our new passenger had decided to bail increasing the cost of the ride on. As we tried to bargain we drew a crowd of local taxi drivers all trying to assist in coming to agreeable (to them) terms. We considered staying and catching a bus the next day but caved having reduced the fare by a measly 10% – we need more practice.

It was a long slow haul up and down some incredible mountain passes while jostling with endless trucks and stopping occasionally to refill the radiator. We sensed that Mr Wang and his taxi were not used to these hills. We climbed over 1300m on precarious roads (N39.05990, E113.67053) before heading steeply downhill which turned out to be even more frightening as umarked roadworks forced us onto trajectories with on-coming traffic in heavy mist/coal dust.

The biggest sting of the day was yet to come. Arriving at the gates to the Wutai Shan world heritage area we were asked to pay £21 each for access. Stunned by that we expected the town of Tui Huai and the surrounding hills to be pristine. No chance. Dirty, loud, congested, touristy (domestic) and a far cry from what we expected in a place that is supposed to be one of the oldest and most sacred Buddhist centres in China.

Mr Wang pulled into one of the first ‘hotels’. V checked out the room and was not impressed but after a day out (it was already 22h00) and negociating it for £8 for the night we surrendered (we should have got it for £4). I should know better, never take the first place! It was a real dive. Most kaya’s have more charm and hygiene. 2cm think mattresses and pillows made of rock (I think), damp with dripping taps and mouldy walls. We used our sleeping bag liners for the first time being too afraid to touch the sheets.

We took a short walk in search of food. The guy on the train the other day had told us that this area is well known for their noodles. He was right. After a beer and a good meal there was nothing between me and sleep. Except possibly the roaring and hooting traffic, loud neighbours, dripping taps, slamming doors, clanging pots, V coughing and the fear of some deadly insect taking a bite out of my butt!

The day cost us over £180 in a country where we were expecting £30 a day. This is disconcerting.

[Pictures: V at the Yungang Caves, Lunch !, Me at the Hanging Monastery, V at the Wooden Pagoda]

– Posted from my iPhone via Wifi